Review
Morelands Grill is part of the Westin Hotel on Dublin’s Westmoreland Street. It is also a standalone operation, and the doors open onto the street, so you don’t need to be a resident to enjoy it.
Morelands occupies the front corner of the building, and the windows look out onto the Bank of Ireland and down to O’Connell Bridge, but the interior aspect here is very striking indeed. The room is very stylish, think Jay Gatsby at play, perhaps with Daisy Buchanan, and you’re in the right milieu. Its art deco without trying too hard and there is a generousness to the scale and sweep that adds to the illusion. There is gold and dark grey, white napery and gleaming silverware, sculptured glasses and designer menus; it’s a very pleasing space indeed.
The name gives the game away choice wise; this is an upmarket grill in the East Coast sense. There are oysters, air dried meats, scallops and to start. Continue with Dover sole, Wicklow lamb, a choice of steaks or take the Early Bird option and enjoy fish and chips with plaice.
A half dozen oyster with vinaigrette and half a lemon wrapped in muslin got me off to a great start. No cooking here of course, but beautiful presentation and a great product. Abi was equally produce driven with dry aged beef Carpaccio served with celeriac dressed leaves and crispy little toasts. Another elegant and understated success.
Mains brought Abi their take on fish and chips from the EB menu; two delicate pieces of plaice in crispy beer batter and skinny fries which were crispy and fluffy in equal measure. The fish was perfectly cooked, and the pea puree was intense, while tartare sauce was tangy and fresh.
I couldn’t but have a steak. They trumpet unique 30-day Himalayan salt aged beef by Peter Hannan sees the beef dry aged for 30 days in a cold chamber that is lined with blocks of Himalayan Rock Salts and it has won numerous awards. This is cooked on a Josper grill. Josper are the king of professional grills, and if used they turn out fabulously cooked meats; this one was exceptional. I have to admit I am always a little blasé about claims of the best meats. After all, not all restaurants get their meat in the same place; does this mean yours is better that than sourced by Patrick Guilbaud, for example. Anyway, the rib eye was one of the best pieces of meat I have ever tasted. Ridiculously tender, full of flavour and perfectly cooked. Grilled pink onion, mushroom, tomato and fondant potato completed the plate and a little pot of brandy peppercorn sauce was a lovely dip.
We managed to find space for a shared chocolate fondant, which was perfectly gooey inside and quite a perfect end to a fine meal.
Service was impeccable all evening and our waitress was charming, while all the staff were attentive and friendly. We retired to the mint bar downstairs- definitely worth a look – and listened to some live music from a duet.
Elegant surrounding, excellent food, friendly service and a really cool bar for afters, Morelands and the Westin are definitely the choice in this part of Dublin.
