Review
The dining room at Brasserie One is the first, and last word in sophistication. With painted walls in classic French shades and large windows that show off the Georgian architecture of the area, this is a fine and luxurious place to be. Chef Alan Burns has made his mark in this kitchen turning out hearty yet refined versions of much loved dishes like the Pressed Ham Hough with Toffee Apple Sauce. It’s a little bit old-school, yet a little bit exciting. A starter of a trio of duck was a smooth liver pate sauce, a dinky confit croquette and smoked slices of nicely pink breast. A beautiful plate given a cheeky kick with a punchy orange marmalade.
Burns has the required light touch when it comes to treating fish how it should be. The Halibut with was perfectly cooked, served with crushed basil potatoes, a quenelle of aubergine caviar and a sauce vierge, this is a perfect winter to summer dish, light, and full of freshness from the vierge yet comforting enough with the herby potatoes. A dish of Roast Rump of Lamb with Celeriac Dauphoise and warm Potato Vinaigrette is warming and earthy, and the rib eye from the local butcher is simply served with frites and béarnaise, and is one of the most flavoursome steak dinners in town. The Monkfish with Spiced Lentils is roasted in a light spice coating, served on perfect Puy lentils with two contrasting purees in their loud colours of beetroot and celeriac. It was enviable in its flavours and just perfect.
Deserts don’t let the diner down with a Hot Chocolate Fondant, rich and melty and served with a mango puree. The Frangipane Tart with burnt Orange Marmalade is soft in its perfectly crisp pastry case. The Tarte Tatin is a perfect French classic, big enough for two or one hungry tatin lover, and served with the perfect contrast of vanilla ice cream.
This restaurant is understated and steps far beyond it’s’ competitors. This is not hotel food; it is one of the best meals you will have in the city.
