The Fairways Bar & Orchard Restaurant, Kilruane, Nenagh
The Fairways has been described by some as Tipperary’s best secret, and while this sounds like praise indeed, it doesn’t come close to just what an oasis it is. Slightly off the beaten track, en route to Cloughjordan, the Fairways spent most of it’s life as a local pub before the chef with a vision, Geoff Jones, took the plunge and turned this into one of Ireland’s hottest food destinations. It isn’t often you walk through a door and immediately feel comforted, there’s the roaring fire, the rustic coloured walls filled with personal touches. Its all nooks and cosy benches for families, friends and couples.
Plate after plate of food being carried from the kitchen looked like works from a Parisian kitchen, whole sea bass done in the style of the day, for it always changes so fish are listed simply by their name and price on the menu. I couldn’t resist the Coquille of Seafood, a relation of his cousin, St Jacques but instead of scallops there were plump mussels, fish white fish and salmon in a light creamy sauce, piped around by perfectly firm potatoes. Jones sources his fish from local markets and the Tournafulla black pudding for the fritters from nearby Co. Limerick. The seafood chowder tastes every bit as good as it looks with no scrimping on the best of shellfish and firm fleshed swimmers.
Dishes like the Roast Monkfish, with a pernod and fellel beurre blanc, bacon lardons and black pudding will explain the restaurants membership of the Seafood Circle. The main of Duck, half, boneless, roasted and served with a lavender, blackberry and orange butter sauce, was imaginative, fun and heavenly with a crispy duck skin and juicy, plump berries. Served on gratin potatoes, with piped mash and a tiny decoration of ratatouille, these plates are poetry in food. The rack of lamb in a pistachio crust was robust and flavoursome. Deserts of sticky toffee, apples and cherry crumble and chocolate cola cake, all took a twist from the usual path and came with beautiful tuille baskets filled with locally made ice cream, decorated with orange zest, mint and chocolate swirls. The Fairways is a joy, a pleasure and a warm hug. Make the trip.
Valerie O’Connor
